Le Train Bleu’s crucial scene in La Femme Nikita (a 1990 Luc Besson movie about a gorgeous killer spy) and the bourgeoisie influenced Theyskens collection this season in a major way.
He wove those two strands into an unlikely whole. Long trenchcoats and tartan blazers buttoned almost to the neck mingled with ultra short little black dresses. Olivier Theyskens also included many of his signatures: sturdy hooks-and-eyes, bustiers and rows of covered buttons. It truly was all his very own, make no mistake about that!
Theyskens then feautured dresses that are body-conscious without being aggressively so, proving that one can be sexy eithout baring too much flesh. This collection had plenty of looks to choose from! Beyond trench coats and tartan jackets, there were jeans, slim cashmere sweaters and midi skirts thrown into the mix. There were also skimming bias-cut sleeveless silk dresses, leather dresses, lacy Nikita-ish LBDs and pointy mid-heeled booties with hook-and-eye detailing on the toes.
The color palette of the show was black, yellow, brown, green, grey, yellow and bronze. But black was the most recurrent color, of course! Theyskens shows are always very Victorian inspired and gothically romantic. His lace detailing he does to perfection and one can’t help bur admire the structure and demi-couture tailoring of his pantsuits.
Oh Olivier! You really can do no wrong… Come back to Nina Ricci or Rochas, please!