Jil Sander Autumn/Winter 2017:

Rodolfo Paglialunga’s latest Jill Sander collection featured  tailoring which was voluminous and obscured the models slight frames. The look was quite severe and structural.

Both single and double-breasted jackets’ shoulders were exaggerated and the seams on the sleeves seemed almost flattened and two-dimensional. The models pants were generously proportioned and the skirts were either A-line or tulip-shaped. Quilting turned up here on elastic-waist skirts, a long-sleeved top and a dress. The flannel and satin coats also seemed quite downy. Out of all of his ideas, the coats were the best. One of these was a timely adaptation of the omnipresent puffer jacket.

Sensuality was scarce in this collection. Paglialunga used some of the spangly Lurex fabrics seen elsewhere, but rather than nipping and tucking them around the body, he made unforgiving shoulder pads and extra-wide sleeves. It would of been sexier if he emphasized the contours of a woman’s figure, though. The handful of looks that were cut close to the body were the best: like a pair of loosely draped sheaths in an abstract animal stripe, a clingy ribbed knit dress in ivory and an LBD gathered at the waist with a metal piercing.

The color scheme of the collection was metallic pink, black, brown, beige, white, blue, red, maroon and mustard yellow.

Generally a fairly good collection, but there were a few slip ups here and there and it won’t go down in Jil Sander history, let’s just say.

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